Retrofitting now will be an expensive upgrade. Looking back, I should have invested in it. When i bought my truck, the dual alternator option was only about $220. Your first clue to a problem is the obvious drain, when it is basically to late. Great for extra AMP storage, but bad when your batteries are weak. I have a GM/CHEVY, so it would take extra time to disconnect the side mounted battery cables vs a older style top mount cable.Īs many are aware, GM has their dual battery systems run in series, with no isolator. Less time per revolution that each winding has to carry the whole load and the alternator fan moves a lot more air at 2K rpm than it does at idle.Ĭlick to expand.When I had my winch installed, this same concern crossed my mind. Speeding the engine up may not charge a lot more amps but it runs the alternator fan a lot faster and any electric person can tell you an alternator or electric motor likes airflow and speed under heavy load. I am also a big believer in upgrading the alternator charge line and speeding the engine up during winching. If I was running a fridge, I would probably do something different so I could pull from both batteries at the same time while winching and keep them separate to prevent killing the whole system if I camped too long without charging.
#DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY IN 98036 FULL#
I also run my batteries connected full time as the majority of the isolators I have seen or heard about do not seem to work as advertised. I don't know if it actually works but I've seen vehicles die when winching really hard because the battery voltage goes below 9 volts when the winch stalls or is started under heavy load and the capacity isn't high enough for all of the loads going on. I've always run from the aux battery because I want the voltage to stay more even in the battery connected to the ECM and the alternator directly. There are a couple schools of thought on this.
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